Jewelry having a pave mounted gem stone

ABSTRACT

A jewelry article in which one or more gem-stones of non-circular cross-sectional shape may be mounted within a metal framework forming part of the jewelry article. In each case, each gem-stone, including for example, square gem-stones, baguette gem-stones, and the like, may be readily and suitably retained within the metal framework by pavé mounting where portions of the metal are raised and effectively engage the gem-stone and slightly bend over the gem-stone to retentively hold the gem-stone in a cavity formed in the metal.

RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application is based on and claims for priority U.S. provisionalpatent application Ser. No. ______, in the name of Harout Dagesian etal., filed Sep. 22, 2005, for JEWELRY HAVING A PAVÉ MOUNTED GEM STONE

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

This invention relates in general to certain new and useful improvementsin jewelry articles having one or more pavé mounted gem-stones in ametal framework forming part of the jewelry article, as well as a methodof mounting gem-stones, which may be of other than circularcross-sectional shape, in a recess in the metal framework of the jewelryarticle.

2. Brief Description of Related Art

Jewelry articles containing a metal framework, such as in rings,bracelets and the like, are constructed so as to hold and display one ormore gem-stones. In the case of a ring, the metal framework is aring-shaped piece of metal, which may be formed in such matter that acavity is presented at the top portion thereof and a gem-stone ismounted in that cavity. In many cases, a plurality of cavities areformed at the upper portion of the article, such as the ring, andgem-stones of differing sizes are mounted in the cavities.

Gem-stones are cut in a variety of shapes and sizes to accommodate thedesign which is attempted to be achieved by a user. Thus, in some cases,the gem-stone may be a square-shaped stone, or a circularly shapedstone. The gem-stone may also adopt the form of a rectangularly-shapedstone, or so-called “baguette” gem-stone or an octagon-shaped gem stoneor any other shape for a jewelry article. In each case, the metalframework is constructed with a recess to accommodate the gem-stone, andsome means of holding the gem-stone in that recess is provided. Themetal framework may be that of a ring-shaped structure for rings, or itmay be in the form of one or more arcuately shaped band sections, whichtogether form a ring constituting a bracelet or an anklet (bracelet forthe ankle). Moreover, the metal framework may also constitute aplurality of links, which together, form a somewhat flexible bracelet oranklet, or for that matter, even a necklace. The jewelry article in theinvention may be in any form, such as a pendant or a pair of earrings.The metal framework may be formed in such manner as to form the frame tobe the jewelry article, or otherwise, it may merely serve as the vehicleto hold one or more gem-stones, as aforesaid.

There are numerous known techniques for mounting gem-stones into themetal framework. However, among these known numerous techniques, are thepavé setting, the channel setting and the so-called “invisible setting”.The pavé setting has been primarily used for circularly-shaped stones,and the channel setting and the invisible setting have been used largelywith non-circularly shaped gem-stones, such as square shaped gem-stonesand baguette shaped stones.

The pavé setting relies upon the formation of two or more prongs,equally spaced around the circularly-shaped gem-stone and which are bentover the upper portion of the gem-stone, (commonly referred to as the“head” or “crown” of the gem-stone) and hold the same in the recess. Inthe channel setting, a recess is also formed to receive this gem-stone,and which recess is bounded by at least a pair of opposed oppositelyfacing walls. The gem-stone has an anchoring portion which sits belowthe surface of the metal and is provided with edges to snap into edgesformed in opposite walls of the metal. The upper surface of the metalsurrounding the head usually has a bevel and this beveled surface formsan outwardly projecting peripheral edge on the stone, such that thestone is forced to snap-fit in the recess.

The invisible setting, commonly used with the square shaped gem-stone,is used when the gem-stones are mounted in such manner that eachgem-stone has a portion in contact with each other stone. Thus, where aplurality of stones are mounted in side-by-side relationship in a groovein the metal, this method is highly effective. Usually, each gem-stoneis cut with a grove on the peripheral side-wall and a ridge on the wallsfacing the stones are used to engage and extend into these grooves.

There are also numerous other methods used for mounting gem-stoneswithin a metal framework. One method, referred to as the prong setting,forms at least two, if not more, enlarged prongs in the metal whichextend over the head of the gem-stone. Usually, the metal is heated tocause the same to extend over the head of the gem-stone and therebyretentively hold the gem-stone in place when the metal has cooled. Thisis possibly one of the easiest methods to use, but in many cases, is notcompletely effective in holding the gem-stone in position in the metalframework.

Another method used for mounting a gem-stone in the metal framework isthe so-called “burnish” method. In this case, a hole is drilled into themetal framework. No prongs are formed to hold the gem-stone in themetal, but rather the metal is rolled toward the gem-stone until iteffectively smashes onto the upper portion of the gem-stone. Insubstance, the metal forms a bead, which is rolled onto the bezeledsurface of the stone and thereby clamps the stone in position in themetal.

A further method used to mount the gem-stone in the metal framework isthe so-called “round invisible” method. In this case, the stone ismounted in wax to form a casting. The wax casting, when melted, allowsthe metal to replace the wax. A groove is formed internally within thecavity so that the metal actually extends into a side of the gem-stonewhen the latter is mounted within the cavity.

Although there have been numerous developed methods, the pavé method,which many consider to be the most attractive method of mounting agem-stone, has been used only with round-shaped stones, as aforesaid. Itwas constantly believed that the pavé method was only effective withround stones and would not operate to effectively hold either a squarestone or a baguette stone, or for that matter, any other shaped stone,other than a round stone, firmly within a cavity in the metal.Consequently, the pavé method was disregarded, except for round stones.

The pavé method, however, is deemed by many to be the most attractivesetting for the gem-stones. In the pavé method, the metal prongs areformed and can be arranged in a pattern to actually compliment the stoneitself. However, since this method has been all but disregarded for usewith the other stones, other than circularly-shaped stones, it has foundlittle use with such non-circularly shaped gem-stones.

It would be highly desirable to assume the advantage of the pavémounting with non-circular stones, and the present invention providessuch a mounting, as well as a method of achieving that result.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTION

It is, therefore, one of the primary objects of the present invention toprovide a jewelry article which includes a metal framework and one ormore gem-stones mounted therein by the pavé mounting technique in whichprongs formed in the metal are used to bend over an upper portion of thestone and retentively hold the gem-stone(s) in position in the metalframework.

It is another object of the present invention to provide a jewelryarticle in which one or more gem-stones can be mounted within a metalframework in an attractive setting and which will protectively hold oneor more gem-stones in a secure position within that metal framework.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a jewelryarticle of the type stated in which the pavé method of mountinggem-stones can be used for retentively, but attractively, securinggem-stones within a metal framework to form a ring, a necklace,earrings, or other body part in which a jewelry article can be used.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide a methodof securing one or more gem-stones within a metal framework to form ajewelry article and in which the gem-stones are attractively mountedwithin the metal framework by prongs which enhance the appearance of thegem-stones within the metal framework.

It is still a further object of the present invention to provide amethod of using a pavé mounting for non-circularly shaped gem-stones byhand-forming the metal with prongs capable of being bent over thegem-stone in such manner that they attractively retain the gem-stones inposition on the metal framework.

With the above and other objects in view, our invention resides in thenovel features of form, construction, arrangement, and combination ofparts presently described and pointed out in the claims.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention primarily resides in a discovery that a pavémethod of mounting a gem-stone in a metal framework can be used for themounting of essentially any type of gem-stone, including non-circulargem-stones, within a metal framework forming a jewelry article. Thepresent invention also provides a unique method of using this pavémethod of mounting the gem-stone to achieve a highly attractive jewelryarticle.

The term “pavé” has been used to refer to a setting of precious stonesin a metal framework so closely that no metal shows. However, the termis also used to represent a type of setting in which circularly-shapedgem-stones, that is, gem-stones which are circular in horizontal crosssection, can be mounted in a metal framework by bending prongs orportions of the metal over portions of the gem-stone.

It is known that the pavé method of forming prongs in a metal frameworkcan be used largely to hold a circularly-shaped gem-stone within a metalframework, but it was also believed that the pavé method would be tooexpensive to utilize with and ineffective for holding a gem-stone withina metal framework if the gem-stone were of a non-circular shape. Itremained for the present invention to provide such a jewelry article anda method of mounting non-circularly-shaped gem-stones within a metalframework forming part of that jewelry article. The present inventionhas provided and has now taught jewelry makers that it is now possibleto attractively mount a gem-stone within a metal framework withpavé-type prongs capable of being bent over a bezeled portion of thegem-stone for retentively holding same.

It has also been found in connection with the present invention that itis not absolutely necessary to bend the prongs directly over the bezeledportion or even the head of the gem-stone in order to tightly retain thegem-stone in a cavity in the metal framework. Rather, it has been foundthat by forming the prongs in the metal, the metal is actually deformedsufficiently so that it actually engages and tightly grasps theside-walls of the gem-stone, or otherwise, the bezeled portion of thegem-stone to physically lock the gem-stone within the cavity formed inthe metal framework.

In particular, the present invention thereby provides a jewelry article,and particularly a ring, having a circularly-shaped metal band, or othermetal configuration, constituting the framework of the article and oneor more gem-stones mounted within this band. The band is formed with oneor more cavities, the number of which is designed to accommodate thenumber of gem-stones to be mounted within the band. The cavities arealso preferably formed with a size and shape to generally accommodatethe gem-stones.

The present invention shows various arrangements of mountingnon-circular gem-stones in a metal framework, typically in a piece ofjewelry. The term “metal”, frequently refers to a so-called “preciousmetal”, such as gold or silver, or the like. The term “gem-stone” asused herein refers essentially to any stone used in the making of ajewelry article, and particularly, although not exclusively, to theso-called “rare gem-stones”, including, for example, diamonds, rubies,sapphires, and the like.

In one embodiment of the invention, there is provided a jewelry articlein which a plurality of gem-stones are mounted in a somewhat diamondconfiguration in a metal framework. Each of the gem-stones areessentially square gem-stones and are mounted in openings in the metalframework, but each opening is arranged so that the center line of thearticle would pass through opposed points or corners of each of thesquare shaped gem-stones. In another embodiment, each of the gem-stonesare mounted in such manner that they are square in horizontal crosssection, but are parallel to one another. In a further embodiment, thegem-stones are generally in the shape of the so-called “baguette”arrangement.

In several cases, the gem-stones are shown as being formed in the metalframework with grooves extending longitudinally along the sides of thegem-stones between the edges of the metal framework. In other cases,grooves and ridges are formed between each of the individual gem-stonesand extend generally transversely across the metal framework. Generally,the grooves, and for that matter, the ridges, are actually formed byusing metal to form the prongs which extend over and hold the gem-stonewithin an opening in the metal framework.

In accordance with this construction, it has been found that the metalactually serves as more than a mere holder of the gem-stone, butcooperates with the shape of the gem-stone to further enhance theappearance of the jewelry article. Thus, the actual formation of thegrooves and the ridges, along with the prongs of metal used to hold thegem-stone, become blended so that there is a more attractive appearance.

The jewelry article of the invention can broadly be described as one inwhich a gem-stone of non-circular shape may be mounted by the pavémounting technique. In this case, the article comprises a metalframework having an initially flat surface, except for the presence ofgem-stone mounting openings. A gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectionalshape is located in each of the gem-stone mounting openings. A pluralityof projections are formed in the metal face and forming the metalframework. Further, a portion of each of the projections are bent toengage a surface portion of the gem-stone having a generally upwardlypresented surface configuration so as to tightly hold the gem-stone inan opening in which the gem-stone is located.

The present invention also provides a method of making a jewelry articlein which at least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework. Themethod comprises forming openings in the metal framework for each of thegem-stones, and thereafter locating an individual gem-stone in eachopening. In one important aspect of the invention, the gem-stone isnon-circular in cross-sectional shape and is typically located in anon-circular opening. The method also involves the moving of metal inthe framework in such manner as to form lumps of metal largely in theshape of projections. The method further calls for the bending of theprojections over the gem-stone and particularly at the top surface orcrown of the gem-stone in order to hold the gem-stone in the opening.

This invention possesses many other advantages and has other purposeswhich may be made more clearly apparent from a consideration of theforms in which it may be embodied. These forms are shown in the drawingsforming a part of and accompanying the present specification. They willnow be described in detail for purposes of illustrating the generalprinciples of the invention. However, it is to be understood that thefollowing detailed description and the accompanying drawings are not tobe taken in a limiting sense.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Having thus described the invention in general terms, reference will nowbe made to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a vertical sectional view of a prior art mounting of agem-stone within a metal framework;

FIG. 2 is a top plan view of the prior art gem-stone of FIG. 1 mountedin the metal framework, and taken substantially along line 2-2 of FIG.1;

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary perspective view of a portion of a jewelryarticle showing the formation of prongs used for holding a gem-stone inan opening in the jewelry article;

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary perspective view, similar to FIG. 3, and showingthe bending of the prongs over a crown portion of a gem-stone to holdthe gem-stone in the metal framework of the jewelry article;

FIGS. 5A through 5F are a series of successive views showing the actualmounting of a gem-stone in a metal framework of a jewelry article and inwhich:

FIG. 5A is a side elevational fragmentary schematic view showing anopening formed in a metal framework which will be used as part of ajewelry article;

FIG. 5B is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view of theframework of FIG. 5A with the opening formed in the framework beingresized to accommodate a gem-stone;

FIG. 5C is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view showing thefitting of a gem-stone into the opening formed in the metal framework;

FIG. 5D is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view showing theinitial step in the formation of a plurality of prongs from the metalframework and surrounding the opening with the gem-stone therein;

FIG. 5E is a schematic fragmentary side elevational view, similar toFIGS. 5A through 5E, and showing the complete formation of the prongsover the crown portion of a gem-stone in order to hold the gem-stone inthe metal framework;

FIG. 6 is a fragmentary vertical sectional view, showing the actualformation of the prongs from a piece of metal, as well as the formationof a groove around the prongs, to highlight the gem-stone being setwithin the metal framework.

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary perspective view showing an alternatearrangement for mounting rectangularly arranged and rectangularly shapedgem-stones in a metal framework;

FIG. 8 is a fragmentary top plan view and showing formation of ridgesbetween square-shaped gem-stones with no longitudinal grooves therein;

FIG. 9 is a fragmentary perspective view, somewhat similar to FIG. 8,and showing the arrangement of projections to hold the gem-stones inopenings in the metal framework;

FIG. 10 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the formation of atransverse ridge between a pair of gem-stones in accordance with thepresent invention;

FIG. 11 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the formation of aserrated upper surface in the ridge of FIG. 10;

FIG. 12 is a perspective view of a modified form of jewelry article inaccordance with the present invention;

FIG. 13 is a fragmentary perspective view of the mounting of thegem-stones of FIG. 12 in a jewelry article with a plurality oflongitudinally extending diagonally or diamond-shaped arrangedgem-stones and the mounting of the gem-stones within openings of themetal framework;

FIG. 14 is a top plan view of the jewelry article of FIG. 13 alsoshowing the projection pattern formed therein;

FIG. 15 is a sectional view taken along line 15-15 of FIG. 14;

FIG. 16 is a partial perspective view showing the formation of lights orprojections in the article of 12 using a tool therefor;

FIG. 17 is a perspective view of a modified form of jewelry article inaccordance with the present invention;

FIG. 18 is a fragmentary enlarged plan view showing the mountingarrangement for holding gem-stones in the jewelry article of FIG. 17;

FIG. 19 is a sectional view taken along line 19-19 of FIG. 18;

FIG. 20 is a top plan view of a further modified form of jewelry articlein which the molds therefore can be computer generated;

FIG. 21 is a side elevational view taken along line 21-21 of FIG. 20;

FIG. 22 is a top plan view of a modified form of jewelry article whichcan be produced from a computer generated mold in accordance with thepresent invention; and

FIG. 23 is an exploded perspective view showing one form of computergenerated mold which can be used for producing the jewelry articles ofthe invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF A PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

Referring now in more detail and particularly with respect to FIGS. 1and 2, these figures illustrate a prior art method of mounting agem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape within an opening of ametal framework. In particular, there is provided a metal framework 30,such as a band of metal to form a ring, and a gem-stone 32 mountedwithin an opening 34 in that metal framework. In this case, the openingis merely a simple opening generally sized and shaped to correspond tothe gem-stone. It can be observed that the opening 34 extends completelythrough the depth of the metal.

Returning to the prior art jewelry article of FIG. 1, it can be seenthat each gem-stone has a belt portion 36, which is retentively andsnugly fitted within a recess 38 formed in the wall of the metalframework. In this way, the gem-stone is retentively held within themetal framework. Moreover, it can be seen by reference to FIG. 2 thatthis belt portion 36 extends completely around the wall of the opening38.

It should be recognized that the prior art technique for mounting thegem-stone is one of several prior art techniques which have been used.However, it is interesting in that with the gem-stone of FIGS. 1 and 2,that is a gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectional shape, the gem-stoneis never mounted with prongs, as in the pavé method in the prior art.Rather, the gem-stone is always mounted by using the belt portion snuglypushed into the metal framework. This has a disadvantage in that thegem-stone is not as tightly held within the opening, as in accordancewith the present invention, and moreover, it does not have the addedadvantage of the increased aesthetic cooperation between the metal andthe gem-stone.

Referring now to FIGS. 3 and 4 of the drawings, there is shown a jewelryarticle 40 in accordance with the present invention. This jewelryarticle 40 is comprised of a metal framework, such as a band of metal42, with an opening 44 formed within the metal framework. In theframework of FIG. 3, there is no gem-stone shown as being mounted withinthe framework. Initially, after the metal framework is formed in adesired shape, the openings 44 are formed in the metal framework,typically by drilling, or the like. The openings extend fully throughthe framework and open on the opposite side thereof.

A plurality of projections 46 are formed around each of the openings, inthe manner as shown, and are essentially in the form of mounds of metal.Thereafter, the mounds of metal are effectively shaped into types ofprojections. After the gem-stone is inserted into the opening 44, theprongs can be bent over. FIG. 4 shows a gem-stone 48 mounted within theopening and would initially have an upper surface which is flat with andessentially coextensive with an upper surface 50 of the metal framework.

In one of the important aspects of the invention, the gem-stonetypically is provided with a belt region, such as the belt portion 36,as shown in FIG. 1. For this purpose, the opening 44 is shown as beingformed with a recess 52 (FIG. 3) to receive that belt portion. Inactuality, even if the peripheral recess 52 were not perfectly formed,the belt of the gem-stone would force the softer metal apart toeffectively sit in the recess. In this way, the gem-stone is tightlyheld within the opening because of the belt portion extending into therecess 52 and also because of the overlying engagement of the prongs 46.

FIGS. 5A through 5F show the actual technique of mounting the gem-stonewithin the opening of a metal framework. Initially, the metal framework,such as the band of metal 42, is formed with the opening 44. Byreference to FIG. 5A, it can be observed that the openings are actuallyformed with tapered side walls 45. Moreover, the openings extendcompletely through the thickness of the metal, that is, from the topsurface to the bottom surface, as shown in FIG. 5A. Thereafter, some ofthe metal in the opening is necessarily removed in order to ensure thatthe gem-stone fits within the opening 44.

FIG. 5B schematically shows the removal of some of the metal at 47. Inaddition, a peripherally extending groove or recess 60 is also formed inthe side wall of the opening 44, as shown in FIG. 5D. Thereafter, theportions of the metal may be pushed upwardly to form mounds, such asmounds 56, as shown in FIG. 5D. Thereafter, when the gem-stone, such asa gem-stone 48, is inserted in the opening 44, the gem-stone 48 willhave a belt region 58, which will be forced into the recess 60 in theside wall of the opening 44.

The metal mounds can be more specifically formed in the shape of prongs62 by using some of the metal in the area surrounding the gem-stone andthereby forming recesses 60 surrounding the gem-stone. However, it is tobe noted that the gem-stone has an upper flat surface 64, which becomesessentially parallel to an upper surface 66 of the metal framework.Finally, as a last stage, the prongs 62 are fully bent over, as shown inFIG. 5F. Moreover, if desired, the grooves 64 can be pronounced tofurther enhance the appearance of the stone. It is not necessary to formthe groove 60 around the gem-stone. In essence, material can be pushedfrom a region further beyond the groove, such that the metal prongs arestill formed.

FIG. 6 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which there is aformation of a deep groove 70. In this case, the groove extendscompletely around the prongs 62. Moreover, FIG. 6 literally illustratesthe cleaning out of metal from the groove 70 by means of a tool 72. Thepoint of the tool is forced into the groove and literally cleans out anymetal fragments which may be remaining within the groove 70. This formsa clean looking groove so as to enhance the appearance of the stone 48,which is surrounded by that groove.

FIG. 7 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which a pluralityof generally square-shaped stones 74 are mounted within a metalframework 76. In this case, it can be observed that each of thesquare-shaped stones are arranged parallel to one another and withrespect to edges 78 of the metal framework. When examining FIGS. 7 and8, it can be observed that each gem-stone 74 is flush with the surfaceof the metal framework 76, and in addition, prongs 80 extend over thecrown portion of the gem-stone. These prongs are shown as being somewhatarcuately shaped. In actuality, it is only necessary to create theprongs so that they are similar in size and shape and arranged in anequally spaced pattern around the stone.

FIG. 7 more fully illustrates the embodiment of the invention in whichthe generally square-shaped stones 74 are held within the metalframework 76 by means of two pairs of prongs. In this case, eachgem-stone 74 is slightly spaced with respect to the next adjacentgem-stone, in the manner as shown in FIG. 8. Moreover, only four prongs80 are used at corners of each of the gem-stones 74. In this embodiment,there are longitudinal grooves 82 provided, and there are a pair oflongitudinally extending edges 84 formed in the metal framework.

FIG. 8 further illustrates an embodiment of the invention having themetal framework 76 and a plurality of square-shaped stones 74 also heldby prongs 80. In this case, the construction is similar, and the stonesare also arranged in a parallel pattern, that is, each stone has edgesessentially parallel to a corresponding edge of the next adjacent stone.In order to provide the metal necessary to form the prongs 80,longitudinal grooves 82 are formed in the upper surface 84 of theframework 76. In this case, the use of the metal to form the prongsresults in continuous grooves 82 surrounded by an upper edge 84, whicheffectively forms ridges around the entire periphery of the framework.

FIG. 8 also shows transverse grooves 86 along transverse sides of eachof a pair of opposed stones. These transverse grooves 86 again furtherset out the individual stones 74 and effectively highlight the same. Inaddition, metal which is used to form the grooves 86 can be used to formupstanding ridges 88. Thus, the metal from each of the grooves 86 iseffectively pushed up to form the ridge 88 and which extends between thelongitudinal grooves 82. These ridges are essentially perpendicular tothe longitudinal grooves 82.

The actual formation of the ridge 88 is more fully shown in FIGS. 10 and11 of the drawings. In this case, it can be observed that the grooves 86are located on each of the opposite sides of the ridge 88. In addition,and if desired, the upper surface of the ridge 88 can also be serrated,that is, formed with an irregular surface 90, by means of a tool 92having a roller 94 specifically designed to create the surfaceconfiguration, as shown in FIG. 11. Thus, when the roller is moved overthe upper surface of the ridge, individual serrations are formed in theupper surface of the ridge.

FIG. 12 illustrates an embodiment of the invention in which adiamond-shaped pattern of square gem-stones is provided. In this case,there is a so-called “metal framework” 90 in the shape of a ringinitially provided with a large number of openings sized to receivegem-stones 92. It can be seen that these gem-stones are arrangeddiagonally with respect to the longitudinal axis of the band andtherefore are in the diamond-shaped pattern, that is, where points ofone gem-stone abut against points of the next adjacent gem-stone. Eachof the gem-stones 92 are retained in the respective openings by means ofprongs, in the manner as previously described. However, here, there area pair of prongs 96 at each of the opposite ends of each gem-stone.Where the points of two gem-stones meet, there will be a total of sixprongs with two of the points holding the sides of one gem-stone and twoof the opposite prongs 96 spaced therefrom at the corner of the oppositegem-stone. The pair of prongs 94 are for aesthetics. Thus, essentially,six individual prongs are used at each of the opposite ends of a pair ofthe gem-stones, in the manner as shown in FIGS. 12 and 13 of thedrawings.

At the point where two gem-stones meet, two of the prongs are also bentover each of the ends of the individual gem-stones, such as specificallyshown in FIG. 13. Again, a tool 98 of the type shown in FIG. 16 can beused to form and to bend the prongs so that they engage and hold thegem-stones in their respective openings.

The remaining prongs 94 which do not necessarily physically engage thegem-stones are present for aesthetic purposes and to essentially balancethe prongs which are formed and used in the holding process.

By further reference to FIG. 13, it can be observed that the gem-stones92 are placed in the metal framework 90 in such manner that they areclosely bounded by a pair of rims 98 on each of the opposite sides ofthe metal framework 90. In the embodiment of the invention, as shown inFIG. 14, the rims are actually integral with recesses 100 formed alongeach of the opposite longitudinal margins. In effect, the rims are usedto supply metal in order to form the prongs 94 and 96. By reference toFIG. 15, it can be seen that the rims 98 actually merge into the grooves100. As the grooves 100 are formed, the individual mounds of metal,which are displaced, form the prongs 94 and 96, in the manner as bestshown in FIG. 15.

Although FIG. 15 does not show the prongs as being bent over theindividual gem-stones, it should be understood that these prongs wouldbe so arranged in order to hold the various gem-stones in theirpositions in the metal framework of the ring.

An alternate embodiment of a jewelry article 110, is shown in FIGS.17-19. Again, the article is provided with a metal framework 112 havinga plurality of baguette gem-stones 114 which are longitudinally alignedand each of which is spaced slightly from or even abutting the nextadjacent gem-stone in the framework 112. In this case, four actualprongs 116 are used to hold each individual gem-stone 114 within theirrespective openings 118. However, for purposes of aesthetics, anadditional prong 120, or upstanding mound 110, can be provided,specifically as shown in FIGS. 17 and 18 of the drawings.

By reference to FIG. 19, it can be seen that the jewelry article 110 maybe in the form of an initially rectangular band having openings 118sized to receive the individual gem-stones 114. However, in order toform the necessary prongs 116 and 120, a portion of the metal is removedto form grooves 122, as shown in FIG. 19. These grooves 122, whichsurround the gem-stone 114, provide longitudinally extending rims 124.The use of the grooves 122 actually highlights the gem-stones andsimultaneously provides the necessary metal to form the individualprongs 116 and 120.

It should be recognized that the above mounting arrangements are only alimited number of mounting arrangements which can be used in accordancewith the present invention. One of the important facets, as indicatedabove, is that the gem-stones are mounted by the pavé mounting method,even though they are of non-circular cross-sectional shape, and evenmore particularly, square or rectangular cross-sectional shape. Inaddition, the various mounting arrangement, as shown in the drawings,are also unique and lend to an attractively designed jewelry article.However, it should thus be obvious that other gem mounting arrangements,and that other means for holding the gem-stones in place, can beemployed in accordance with the teachings of these embodiments of theinvention.

FIGS. 20 and 21 illustrate one form of jewelry article which can beproduced in a mold which can be computer generated pursuant to thepresent invention. The jewelry article of FIG. 20 is designated byreference number 140 and is comprised of a metal band 142 havingopenings 144 for receiving gem-stones. In the article as shown in FIG.20, no gem-stones are yet mounted within the band. However, the openings144 are sized for receipt of gem-stones. In this case, the gem-stoneswould still be rectangularly shaped gem-stones, or for that matter,baguette gem-stones.

In accordance with the mold used to produce the article 140, individualbits or projections 144 are formed at the edges in the mold processwhere they would normally overly the gem-stone. In this particular case,the projections are conveniently and accurately formed during themolding operation. Thereafter, when the gem-stones are inserted in therespective openings 144, the projections 146 are bent over toretentively hold the gem-stones 148 in the respective openings 144.

FIG. 22 illustrates a modified form of jewelry article 150 in the natureof, for example, an earing, having a center hub 152 with an opening 154to receive a gem-stone 148. The article is also provided with fourquadralaterally arranged outwardly extending arms 156, and each of whichis provided with openings 158 again sized to receive gem-stones.Surrounding each of the openings 158 are upstanding projections 160.This entire article is suitably formed within a mold, and in this case,the projections are again upwardly struck so that gem-stones can beinserted in the openings 158. Thereafter, the projections or bits 160are then pushed over directly onto the top of the gem-stone in order toretentively hold same.

FIG. 23 illustrates one form of mold which can be generated throughcomputer program instructions. In this case, there is a mold base 170and a mold top 172. The base 170 is provided with a recess or depression174 and the top 172 is provided with a downwardly struck projection 176.Moreover, there are a plurality of projections 178 on the top whichextend into and form openings in the band of metal, as for example, aring. In this way, the projections will automatically cause theformation of the openings in the metal when the latter has been pouredinto the mold.

Furthermore, the molds 170 and 172 would be constructed so that theyactually cause the formation of the projections 146, as shown in FIGS.20 and 22. In this way, there is no need to literally cause theformation of the projections by hand tools. Rather, this is accomplishedby forming straight, upwardly struck projections, which are then easilybent over and are allowed to retentively hold the gem-stones in therespective openings.

Thus, there has been illustrated and described a unique and noveljewelry having a pavé mounted gem stone and which thereby fulfills allof the objects and advantages which have been sought. It should beunderstood that many changes, modifications, variations and other usesand applications which will become apparent to those skilled in the artafter considering the specification and the accompanying drawings.Therefore, any and all such changes, modifications, variations and otheruses and applications which do not depart from the spirit and scope ofthe invention are deemed to be covered by the invention.

1. A jewelry article comprising: a) an elongate framework of arelatively malleable metal capable of being hand formed with tools; b) aplurality of individual gem-stones of generally non-circularcross-sectional shape with each individual gem-stone mounted in arespective opening in said framework; and c) a plurality of metal prongsformed in said framework and extending over the gem-stone mounted ineach said opening, such that each non-circular gem-stone is held tightlyin said metal framework.
 2. The jewelry article of claim 1 furthercharacterized in that each of said gem-stones are rectangularly arrangedin said metal framework, such that an end point of each stone face anend point of the next adjacent stone.
 3. The jewelry article of claim 1further characterized in that each said gem-stone is generallyrectangularly arranged and is parallel in said framework to the nextadjacent gem-stone.
 4. The jewelry article of claim 1 furthercharacterized in that each of said gem-stones are baguette-shapedgem-stones and are endwise abutting.
 5. The jewelry article of claim 1further characterized in that each gem-stone has a flat surface, whichis initially coextensive with a flat surface of the metal framework. 6.A jewelry article in which a gem-stone of non-circular shape may bemounted by the pavé mounting technique. Said jewelry article comprising:a) a metal framework having an initially flat surface, except for thepresence of at lease one gem-stone mounting opening; b) a gem-stone ofnon-circular shape in horizontal cross-section and being located in thatmounting opening; c) a plurality of projections formed in the metalsurface and from the metal forming said metal framework; and d) aportion of each of said projections being bent to engage a surfaceportion of said gem-stone having a generally upwardly presented surfaceconfiguration, so as to tightly hold a gem-stone in an opening in whichthe gem-stone is located.
 7. The jewelry article of claim 6 furthercharacterized in that said projections further comprise: a) end portionswhich engage the crown or upper surface of said gem-stone.
 8. Thejewelry article of claim 6 further characterized in that said gem-stoneis mounted in said opening in such manner that: a) said gem-stone has anuppermost surface; and b) said uppermost surface of said gem-stonegenerally lies in the same plane as the initially flat surface of saidmetal framework.
 9. The jewelry article of claim 6 further characterizedin that said gem-stone comprises: a) a peripherally extending beltportion; and b) said belt portion of said gem-stone engages a portion ofthe metal forming part of the framework surrounding the opening andwhich precludes the gem-stone from being pushed though said opening. 10.The jewelry article of claim 1 further characterized in that saidjewelry article comprises: a) an elongate groove extending between anedge of said metal framework and each of a plurality of gem-stonesmounted in said framework.
 11. The jewelry article of claim 6 furthercharacterized in that said jewelry article comprises: a) a pair ofspaced apart elongate grooves extending between opposite longitudinallyextending edges of said metal framework; and b) each of a plurality ofgem-stones are mounted in said framework.
 12. The jewelry article ofclaim 6 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises: a)an elongate groove extending transversely between a pair of opposededges of said metal framework; and b) an upstanding ridge located insaid elongate transversely arranged groove.
 13. The jewelry article ofclaim 6 further characterized in that said jewelry article comprises: a)a plurality of gem-stones mounted in said metal framework; b) each ofsaid gem-stones are of a generally rectangular configurations inhorizontal cross-section; and c) a projection at ends of each of saidgem-stones and being arranged to hold at least one of said gem-stones inplace.
 14. The jewelry article of claim 13 further characterized in thateach of said gem-stones are arranged in said framework in end to endrelationship.
 15. The jewelry article of claim 13 further characterizedin that each of said gem-stones are arranged in said framework in alayered configuration.
 16. A method of making a jewelry article in whichat least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework, said methodcomprising: a) locating a gem-stone of non-circular cross-sectionalshape in a non-circularly shaped opening in a metal framework; b) movingmetal in the framework into a plurality of lumps of metal surroundingthe gem-stone; c) hand forming each individual lump into a projection;and d) forcing each projection over an upper portion of a gem-stone toengage the top surface or crown of the gem-stone and thereby tightlyhold same into the metal framework.
 17. The method of making a jewelryarticle of claim 16 further characterized in that each gem-stone has aperipherally extending belt portion, and that each belt portion engagesa portion of the metal framework in the opening in which the gem-stoneis located and which thereby precludes the gem-stone from being pushedthrough said opening.
 18. The method of claim 16 further characterizedin that said method comprises forming a pair of oppositely spaced apartelongate grooves in said metal framework extending along edges of themetal framework.
 19. The method of making a jewelry of claim 16 furthercharacterized in that the method comprises forming transverse groovesextending between edges of the jewelry article located between each ofthe individual gem-stones.
 20. The method of making a jewelry article ofclaim 19 further characterized in that said method also comprisesforming an upstanding ridge between each of the successive gem-stones inthe metal framework.
 21. A method of making a jewelry article in whichat least one gem-stone is mounted in a metal framework, said methodcomprising: a) providing a mold with a computer generated design forforming a metal framework with gem-stone receiving openings; b) causingformation of a plurality of upwardly struck projections surroundingopenings in the framework allowing for insertion of gemstones therein;c) locating a gem-stone of a non-circular cross-sectional shape in eachopening in a metal framework; and d) manually bending each projectionover an upper portion of a gem-stone to engage the top surface or crownof the gem-stone and thereby tightly hold same into the metal framework.22. The method of making a jewelry article of claim 21 furthercharacterized in that each gem-stone has a peripherally extending beltportion, and that each belt portion engages a portion of the metalframework in the opening in which the gem-stone is located and whichthereby precludes the gem-stone from being pushed through said opening.23. The method of claim 21 further characterized in that said methodcomprises molding a pair of oppositely spaced apart elongate grooves insaid metal framework extending along edges of the metal framework.